Are you enjoying Morocco ? The officer asked, eagerly snatching my U.S. passport from my hand.

"Tres Bien, Muy Bueno".

I was so tired of this constant and unnecessary interrogation on my 14 hour bus ride through the disputed Western Sahara.

Western Sahara was the last of the Spanish African colonies to be vacated in 1975. Franco decided that a referendum was in order but King Hassan of Morocco had other ideas. He marched 300,000 civilians southward into the Sahara in a move known as the Green March. It was a success. Faced with attacking the civilians or withdrawing from Western Sahara without a referendum, Spain caved in and withdrew. Shortly thereafter an agreement was drawn up in Madrid to split the territory between Morocco and Mauritania.

No one consulted the native Saharawis and they were greatly determined to establish the Saharan Arab Democratic Republic.

Algeria, never one to miss a regional gang bang, ceded part of it's hamada region to the Saharawi guerillas and the Polisario guerillas came out swinging. They proved too much for the Mauritanians who withdrew all claims to the region, but Morocco would not be defeated. The government constructed a series of heavily guarded desert walls and that is where we are today.

So why the constant interrogation of foreigners? The Royal Gendarmerie are after writers and journalists. Admit that you are one of these and you can wave goodbye to your bus. There is no room in Western Sahara for those bearing witness.

"What is your profession?" The officer asked.....
"Computer Operator" I said.
He handed me back my passport and I climbed back onto the bus, awaiting the next interrogation.

* * *
The road south to Mauritania hugs the coast and if you happen to be on the right side you get tremendous views. Mostly it's of cliffs that have been worn away underneath. The same kind that Wile E Coyote drills holes through and falls into.

It's interesting for a few miles then it's all the same.

* * *

Laayoune is quite impressive for a city that's only been around since 1940. The bus arrived there at about 1:30 am and the city was still bustling. There isn't anything to indicate that this is a disputed land until you see the white vehicles marked "UN". It's hard finding a room in Laayoune because all the UN people occupy them and will do so until Morocco successfully integrates the region.

* * *

The bus finally arrived in Dakhla at 5:30 am. I got a ride with a woman from the bus in a van driven by the kindest man in Western Sahara, Mohammed Siti. He dropped me off at a cafe and then came back an hour later to invite me to his house for sleep and breakfast. He also indicated that he could arrange a ride into Mauritania.

At about 10:30 am Mohammed drove me to the police checkpoint and introduced me to the transport, a Peugeot van. Into the back I went with five other souls and various boxes and furniture.

Republique Islamique du Mauritanie was next on the earthkora circuit or so I hoped. I did not have a visa to enter the country.