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September 09, 2005
Belfast: Unstoppable Redemption
"Be prepared to be amazed by the fastest and most luxurious high speed ferry service in the world" the ferry PA cooed.
Thank you, I will.
It was just like being back on the QM2, sort of. It had all the glitz and none of the butt kissing for which my ego was truly sad. The Stena Voyager is well appointed with four restaurants, three lounges, and a casino. One of those restaurants is a Burger King where a burger, small fries and a coke will set your travel budget back £4.99 pounds or about $9.00 US.
There are also five flat video monitors and they were all displaying dramatic vignettes of animals killing other animals for food. I'm sure subliminally this is make you feel better about dropping a small fortune on non-threatening anonymous chunks of cow (?) but I would have chosen gazelle tartare any day.
There are no Rolls Royce stablizers on the Voyager so the crossing was three hours of gentle rocking that was just like the fetal days of being weightless in amniotic fluid. I know this for a fact because my Mom did not possess Rolls Royce stabilizers.
* * *
There is no mistaking Belfast. When I was a child I remember watching the violence unfold here countless times on the news. Yesterday was the day of the White Rock Parade in West Belfast and the Parade Commission decided in the interest of safety to prevent the procession from marching in front of the very homes of the nationalists they despise.
West Circular Road was turned into a war zone with two Army Land Rovers set ablaze by Molotov Cocktails. Six police officers were hurt during the rioting - reminiscent of the time that they call "The Troubles" around here. As is the case with mob mentality the nationalists were also out in full force taunting the loyalists and that only escalated the situation. The loyalist supporters then blocked all the streets in and out of Shaftsbury Square where I was staying at the YHA and that's what I walked into after my day of traversing the streets of benign central Belfast.
Armored police carriers were blocking all the roads into Shaftsbury and the troops were ready to rumble, they were not amateurs.
Overhead a police helicopter hovered taking in a God's eye view of the city because there was violence in many more places in the city. Violence much worse than this. I had seen enough.
West Circular Road
The first thing I learned when traveling to areas of turmoil was to avoid public demonstration and discontent wherever you see it. In most countries crying "police brutality" will just result in the officer saying "My heavens! Goodness me! Why it certainly is!" before clubbing you again. It's not America which, as we all know, is home to the world's kindest and most loving police forces.
I took a few pictures and some video and immediately went inside the YHA.
Nothern Ireland is still a very dangerous place sometimes, but it is also a place of redemption.
I decided to go to Carrick-a-Rede where you access the island by way of a rope and plank bridge. It is 60 feet in length and is suspended 80 feet above the crashing waves and jagged rocks. This proved an interesting and occasionally heart pounding experience as the bridge bucked all the while I was crossing it.
The wind was very strong making you feel as if you were going to be blown away at any moment. The scenery was gorgeous with seagulls circling over steep, sheer chalky cliffs and turbulent whitecaps.
I'm sure if someone more talented than I were describing it to you, you'd be thinking "What a great and dramatic place to die". That is until you heard the punchline: "Uh yeah,....well... umm... he fell off a rope and plank bridge".
It's another heart pounding experience, one of a kinder nature, that I want to mention right now. Enroute to the bridge is a small protestant Church of Ireland with a dwindling congregation that could not afford to fix it's roof. The nearby Catholic church took it upon itself to raise money, and not only had the roof restored, but also renovated the whole place.
The driver Patrick, a young, proud and likable young man said "Of course you never see this in the news". That brought to mind the Elvis Costello song "What's so funny about peace, love and understanding". He is right, peace sells and no one buys most of the time.
Despite it's reputation for violence Belfast is changing for the better and I dare say I like it here.
The rioting is an uncommon event and in no way represents modern Belfast. It doesn't even represent old Belfast. Nationalists and loyalists groups are shells of their former selves and are now nothing more than well dressed thugs carrying tattered flags that used to mean something.
I have taken pains to not say unkind things in my dispatches, but this violence is senseless. I am a realist. Don't get me wrong, there is a time for violence and I know that sounds remarkably odd for a buddhist to say but I offer you this: it cuts down on Sylvester Stallone's dialogue. That is the ONE exception.
Belfast is a safe city with a friendly people and a rich history, something the city wants you to understand. The Titanic was built here, something that leads residents to joke "It was okay when it left Belfast!".
Elaborate murals, long a symbol of the sectarianism, now sport web site addresses proving that in the rising tide of progress that all boats must lift or perish.
* * *
I was amazed by Belfast and it turned out to be much more than I expected. Beautiful Victorian buildings, a thriving cultural scene and the arts flourish at every turn.
I think back to the ferry announcement and I certainly am amazed. I am amazed that Belfast is in most respects a normal place despite attempts by hoodlums to mar it with violence.
Note: Since this dispatch was written the rioting went on for three more days resulting in more than 80 officers being injured by Orange rioters. It's amazing that no one was killed in violence that randomly and routinely used molotov cocktails and live gunfire. Orange Grand Master Robert Saulters refuses to denounce the rioting. And so the gang wars continue......
Posted by Julian Cook at September 9, 2005 06:00 AM
I saw the riots on the news and was wondering if you were anywhere near them. I'm glad you're ok.
Posted by: Maren at September 16, 2005 02:52 PM
I was there at the hostel with you. Earlier my friends and I were over at Shankill whilst this was taking place and you are spot on when you mention West Circular. My friends and I decided to leave as soon as we could as it was getting fairly dangerous.
Did you see the preacherman outside the building later? The man with the megaphone? What a truly strange day Saturday turned out to be.
Thanks for turning me on to your website.
Cheers,
Whitty
Posted by: Paul Whitty at September 16, 2005 02:55 PM
Hi Julian,
I enjoy getting the updates on your travels and your latest adventure. I love reading your entries. For a brief moment, I am no longer tapping away at the keyboard, but there with you on the Queen Mary II, in England... and then all too quickly, I am yanked back into reality. I'll be looking forward to my next mini retreat.
I hope you are well. Stay safe!
Sherry
Posted by: Sherry Beckmann at September 16, 2005 03:41 PM
What timing? I felt so much disappointment at the news from Belfast. My last visit to Derry was at the very beginning of this latest peace process. I hope things can get back on track after this.
But your writing has reminided me of how much I enjoyed my stays in Northern Ireland. The people are friendly - and the competitive drinking? Well, I stayed out of those games as much as possible, but let's just say I drank more Guiness in one week in Derry than I had the first 30 years of my life. And don't try to play pool with the Irish, they have crazy rules that change the longer you drink.
Keep up the great journaling. I'm truly enjoying your stories. Thanks.
Posted by: Terri Shofner at September 17, 2005 12:21 AM
Whitty! It's good to see you again. I did see the preacherman. His name is Robert Mitchell and I had a chance to speak with him very briefly. He told me that the church has been coming to that corner for more than 40 years spreading the message.
At first I thought it was something else. After the day's events, as soon as I heard the megaphone, I thought "Oh great! Now there's martial law".
Julian
Posted by: Julian Cook at September 17, 2005 04:30 AM
Terri,
I know all too much about the competitive drinking especially since I have been hanging with the young hostel crowd of 20 somethings.
I have discovered this, a nice dinner of fish and chips before imbibing makes all the difference. Not sure why though.
Ironically there's another connection between you, me and Guinness if you think back. When you were visiting Washington DC do you remember when we went to the Tryst coffeehouse? That's where we had the Guinness with a shot of espresso that turned out to be quite good.
That's what you need here in good ole Ireland to keep the good times rolling, Guiness with caffeine!
Julian
Posted by: Julian Cook at September 17, 2005 05:29 AM
Sherry,
every writer dreams of hearing such terrific comments. Writing these dispatches is like giving birth. Sadly my prose does not spew forth like a cut jugular. Writing dispatches is difficult business.
First you have to do a rough write, then another rewrite and then after numerous rewrites you might have something that people are interested in.
Of course I am having the time of my life but to know that I have managed to actually take someone with me through my words is high praise indeed and I thank you profusely.
Julian
Posted by: Julian Cook at September 17, 2005 05:37 AM
Julian,
It is sad indeed to think that since my last visit to Belfast (in 1983), the rioting and the other violence is still a part of the scene from time to time. You are right to mention that a lot of the rioters these days are merely thugs with nigh any nobleness to their "cause." There seems to be many who never have any desires to "give peace a chance." They are evil, plain and simple. And I join all who condemn the Orange Grand Master Robert Saulters for basically condoning the actions of those thugs. Mr. Saulters is a master of evil and a bloody coward for being silent. Men like him and the Protestant Rev. Ian Paisley and the crooks that have taken over the IRA ruin Northern Ireland for many. Such a shame that they were born on one of he most beautiful islands on Earth and chose to try their best to make it their own personal hell.
Steven Newman
Posted by: steven newman at September 17, 2005 12:38 PM
I could not have said this better.
An Irishman here said "Where in Los Angeles you have the gangs with red and blue, here we have orange and green".
JC
Posted by: Julian Cook at September 17, 2005 02:31 PM
It frightens me sometimes to know you get near this violence across the world. I know this is your dream. Please take caution when you are aware of such happenings. Keep up your dream and it still sounds like you are having the best time possible.Don't let Ped drink so much anymore though. Love ya Sis
Posted by: Linda at September 17, 2005 10:34 PM
Dia dhuit Julian
I've just had surgery, and been blissfully drugged up to the point of not knowing nor caring about what is going on in the world, for the last week..........
After getting home, and residing in my throan of pillows on the couch for a couple of days, I finally decided it was time to reach out to the world again. Amongst the many offers for free viagra, and credit cards, I found your latest update message and it brought a smile to my face.
All of your travel stories capture my attention, and make me feel as if I have been traveling at your side the whole time. This story in particular touched me.
Although I am a "mutt" (Irish, Welsh & English), I have always felt a desire to visit Ireland the most.
Perhaps this is because the English part of my family is very "American" with ties to presidents and very stuffy Bostonian Great-Aunts who would tell me I could not have too much hard sauce on my pound cake because it was "far too rich for such a little girl".
The idea of having relatives that were horse theives in Ireland always made me feel I must have a little "bad girl blood" in me. It seemed so dangerous and exciting. My grandfather wanted to bring me to the area of County Armagh in the 80's but my parents decided it was too dangerous. My grandfather put the trip on hold, and we hoped the turmoil would subside. Then he became sick with alzheimers, and eventually passed away....taking many family stories with him. Unfortunately, I have not made it a priority to go to Ireland since then; but I know I will get there eventually one day.
It is unsettling to hear the senseless violence continues in Ireland; but your story of the Catholic Church helping the Protestant Church warmed my heart.
I recently saw the movie, Step Into Liquid, where the most heart-warming part is a segment in County Donegal, where the American Malloy brothers meet their Irish counterparts on the grayest ocean imaginable. They also meet some local surfers who have a program that brings the Catholic kids and the Protestant kids together to learn to surf. A way of showing them they are all the same.....kids, having a blast learning how to surf.
As for Ped, I certainly hope you will not have to enroll him in AA upon your return....he must have learned some Gaelic while you were there though.....Pionta Guinness, le do thoil!!
I cannot wait to hear your next story...........
Stay safe, and happy travels.........
Love
Kimberly
Posted by: Kimberly at September 23, 2005 11:38 AM
Wow! I've checked in for the first time (Oct 6) and feel like I've cheated myself for not traveling along with you via your updates. I'll correct that. And, Julian, I also am impressed by your ability to capture the essence of your experiences and pass it along. Bravo!
Tracie
Posted by: Tracie at October 6, 2005 07:14 PM
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